Framing Primer:

This article is intended as an introduction primer to framing photography and prints.

Why Framing?

Framing your artwork and photography is key to the long term enjoyment of a piece. Unfortunately even in your home and office, the elements take their toll on printed artwork. While at first blush proper framing may seem pricey, done properly the framing will last the lifetime of a piece. It is a moderate investment now, that if carefully and correctly done, can pay dividends down the road.

At the minimum, every piece should be in a sturdy frame behind a piece of glass/Plexiglas to protect against wear and tear. To enjoy a piece for a lifetime, a piece should be properly framed by a custom frame shop using the guidelines below. Ultimately, framing is like any other purchase: your needs should be balanced against the investment. Even when cost is an issue, I do not recommend buying ready made frames from a “big box” discount retailer, instead look into alternate options such as used frames or pre-made frames using standard sizes from a custom frame shop.

Proper framing combats against four elements; UV radiation, moisture and particulates, chemical interaction and Murphy.

Murphy

Firstly Murphy. Everyone is familiar with this adage of what can happen will happen. The outer element of the frame protects the piece in case was dropped by absorbing impact. It also adds structure to the glass or Plexiglas surface reducing the chances it will break. The most durable are metal frames and Plexiglas, which are often recommended for high traffic areas such as restaurants, offices or rooms where children will play. Glass and wood are more aesthetically pleasing though, and offer equal protection against splatter and wear and tear, but in a large accident (imagine stairs + gravity) broken glass can scratch a piece. At the very least, even a ready made frame should be sturdy enough to protect against Murphy.

Chemical Interactions:

But, the first consideration for framing should be the chemical interaction between materials. This is accomplished by using “acid free” framing and mounting materials, which are pH neutral during their manufacture. Items such as cardboard, fiberboard, common tape, etc should be explicitly avoided as they release fumes into the surrounding materials (and artwork) that will discolor and break down pieces. Consider it as a slow moving stain seeping into it's surroundings. All pieces, from the matte to the tape and hinging materials should be acid free. Even one non-acid free element within the closed environment of a frame can fill the area with fumes and cause discoloration. A proper custom frame shop should be sought out to provide materials and services in providing acid free framing materials.

UV Radiation:

UV radiation is almost inescapable unless you want to cover the piece with a special drop cloth or have the piece properly stored away from all light sources. Most people do not want to do this with their prized art (obviously so!), so using special glass or Plexiglas that has been treated with a special UV protection coat. Most will block a high percentage of UV radiation (from 50-99%), and not be cost prohibitive over uncoated glass. Glare resistant coatings are offered as well, and it is up to you as the buyer if you wish to go this route. The amount of protection invested in should be proportional to how long you wish to own the piece, and it's proximity to direct sunlight. There are a variety of different manufacturers and coating types available, and a custom framing shop will be the best source of these. These coatings will not lose their effectiveness over time, but a lower percentage of UV radiation blocked will be less effective over many years.

Moisture and Particulates:

Moisture in it's most detrimental form would be liquid poured all over the piece. While the prints here will not immediately bleed out, it is not advised to test that. Framing protects against splashes and spills (see Murphy) but also assists to normalize the humidity in the air. Rapid changes in humidity can cause a photo or print to become wavy over time. Proper mounting and framing mitigates this by creating a buffer for moisture. Dust is also everyplace, and a frame and glass keeps dust away from the surface of a piece. On hard surfaces such as a counter top dusting may seem a trivial chore, but a print has a much softer surface and the dust acts like sandpaper grit when rubbed across it causing fine scratches. This dusting / micro scratching process can even sometimes be seen on uncoated Plexiglas.

Components of a Quality Frame: Front to Back

You will notice that I do not include dry mounting below. That is because I advise strongly against dry mounting as it is not required if the piece is properly hinged, and can permanently damage a piece in a multitude of ways. Many custom frame shops will push for this route, but demand that the piece you care for is not put through this process.

Outer Frame: The most visible part, a sturdy piece designed to provide rigidity and absorb impacts. Varies from decorative and ornate to simple finishes. Can be one of the most pricey part of a frame, depending on the manufacturer and style.

Glass: Generally referred to as “glass”, the transparent material used to protect the piece from UV radiation and splashes.

Matte: Mattes are special heavy papers that are decorative and assist in holding the edges of a piece down. Colors, textures, widths and bevels can be combined to enhance the visual aesthetic of the piece.

The Art Itself: Bare, removed from any protective envelopes.

Hinges: A framing term for the combination of tape and/or supports. Usually at the top the art is essentially taped with special tape, and supported at the bottom (with triangle pockets or other mechanisms). The tape is designed to have no release (goo) and be acid free – it is not just simple gift wrapping tape. The ideal solution is to use acid free pockets on all four corners, properly trimmed.

Mounting Board: Usually foam board or another smooth surface, inflexible, acid free material. The artwork is actually mounted on this board, never to the matte directly. This board is held in with flat springs or staples to the frame, pushing all of the other layers together into a sandwich.

Dust Cover: Usually brown or black acid free paper that is taped to the back of the frame. Used to protect against dust and humidity. Taped completely to the back of the frame using acid free double sided tape.

Hanging Devices: A sturdy mechanism to mount the frame on the wall. Ideally should be stronger than required and attach directly to the outer frame.

Seals / Stickers: Should be placed within a nonporous plastic envelope and taped to the back of the dust cover. These are usually stickers by the frame shop, certificates of authenticity, etc.